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😓Nooo R.I.P money

Very nice. Want to get the welder. Multimeyr nikel and this testing machine.

Hey, nice video! Just wanted to drop by and ask if using a standard 18v drill battery would be sufficient for such a spot welder? It would save some money if i didn't have to buy a dedicated battery.

Total crap and could be dangerous

Didn't have mine for 20min and shorted. Something burnt up.

Didn't have mine for 20min and shorted. Something burnt up.

Do you also configure the current output as well as the voltage output on the box? I have a different MPPT and it only allows variable volt output, I have noticed the amps go up to 5.6 on my 110w panel - wonder if I am damaging my battery

how do u have 9 modes i only have 5

Not work

I appreciate the video. It is very helpful. I have one question. My house does not have a phone panel or anything like that. There are many wires together, and I cannot tell which one is the outside wire. Will it cause any trouble if I do not disconnect the line that goes out of the house?

hi! can you unlock Bafang with DPC245 display? Thank you!

Hi! Does this work for Bafang M200? Thank you!

Almost got one like the two on here then decided not to, but I do have a fresh pack of 10 AWG, good to know that. I think I might get one. Always wanted to make my own lithium battery but I know I don't want to be using junk tools, but I do need to do it on a budget. The hard part is finding the cells now.

Do you have a video on the DIY spot welder that you referenced using? Im looking into building my own. Also, what are the chances that someone other than you got in the pack (as it seems to be easily accessible with no tamper tape on it) and tried to 'fix' it but made it worse. I only say this because that does look nastier than you'd normally send out the door? Anyway, thanks for the videos!

I have a 45AH with 400A would that work too ?

Great Video. I am thinking of running a throttle-only setup on my current build. Do you think it is even necessary to install the controller and sensors for this? If I do still require the controller, then is there a way to disable PAS while still allowing the throttle to sit at PA lvl 9 for example?

I have the exact breaker in 2P hooked with my 400ah Lithium battery running easily over 100amps.

Same thing happened to me it was the charger. I put an older charger that I had on it and it worked fine

Continue buying chiensia crap batteries and skimp on custom build with genuine batteries...

This may be a dumb question but what are those connectors called?

Good idea

You should have used the Leads that came with the Spot Welder so that we know what to expect, this is not a fair review as you modify before even trying by second guessing the unit, ach, you just could not help yourself , right ?! LOL thanks anyways for your video, oh BTW do you think this would work with 2x Dewalt 20v 5 ah Batteries in Parallel , I am about to find out , those Dewalt Batteries can deliver a lot of juice as they are expected to power small and big tools .

Great review Steve. I'm new to spot welding and I bought exactly this model to start (GX591) from AliExpress, thanks to your review. Could I power it with a pack of 6 x 18650 (3S2P 12,6V, between 4 and 5Ah)? Anybody could help? Mine is arriving next week. Thank you guys

An Eggrider display will do the same function

Green flashing light on board indicates it is firing. so put needles down when there is no green light....

Does it work on fatbike motor

Will this work for the TT ebike 2000w?

This happened to me recently, after a long break from using my bike. I wish I would've known these batteries did crap like this. I would've made sure to charge it every so often.

BFRC u have to use the flashing light to time the spot welds....

You need to test if it actually breaks at 120+ A Without catching on fire...

What you are saying makes no sense at all. Only the current trough the breaker matters: P = I^2 R

Confusing 😊

I have an e-bike Kugo Kukirin V1 Pro- is it also possible to connect and hack with the phone?

can you try welding copper nickel sandwitch? I'm curious if it can manage to weld it just as well as kweld does

more Chinese cloning someone elses hard work

Nice work! I wanna diy a 18650/21700 battery pack，could you please tell me which spot welder works well and where to buy one？Thanks!

BOB BROSS

Can it weld copper nickel

That is how they work , i got 10 years old Cells , that do not have a BMS , and they are still in balance

When you look at the specs of the cheap inverters, many will give output voltage as 110V +/- 10% which is between 99 and 121 volts. This is terrible! It should be 115 +/- 4% for range of 110 to 120V. Some will list efficiency at >80% which is more like a modified sine wave. Pure sine wave should be >90% efficiency. It would be interesting to see the output voltage on the oscilloscope. Thanks for the video!

Ok hahahaa here we got all the e-bike experts now hahahaa what a pack of RUclips spinners

100% correct

What size nickel strip are you using?...great videos, live your channel!

I noticed you said at 1:00 that the mosfets were small, were you talking about the specs of the mosfet or the size? R in 7 segment looks like an A but I think only people who did electronics before the 90s would know.

Wow! Super! Way too show nothing at all!

Hi I have a balance wire that terminates half way down one of the cells connecting to nothing.is this correct?

Hello, I have a question about m400. I have display DPC 18 4.2 U (UART) - blocked version. Can i change my motor settings in program speeed (Google play app). Some people tell me that the settings can only be changed in BBS01, BBS02 etc. motors. But in the other hand some guys say that I can change the settings with this program on all engines with UART communication. Now I don't know if I should risk it, could my controller get bricked?

you're should connect them parallel if you want them to show the same current

WHAT ABOUT SPARTA AND BATAVUS ?

What is the principle of welding batteries? I understand the basics and that the welding spot should have the highest temperature for the shortest time. We have a spotter with a bunch of settings: first welding, second and third, where the second welding is the main welding and the third is hardening. There are also peripheral settings such as pause between pulses, current rise and fall times. So let's get down to business: the first and last welds should not have as high a current as the second. The first weld prepares the nickel strip for welding, the second welds it directly, and the third releases the strip. We have two main problems that I still can't figure out: 1. Why do the electrodes "stick" to the workpiece? According to my observations, this is due to the cross-sectional area of the electrode tip in contact with the nickel tape. On the one hand, a smaller contact area creates better welding, but the electrodes stick 👉👈 On the other hand, a larger area cooks worse. By increasing the current, the workpiece overheated too much and still nothing happened) 2. One electrode cooks and the other does not. In the case of DC welding, this is understandable. The "positive" electrode, where the current enters the battery substrate, welds better than the "negative" electrode, where the current leaves the battery. However, with AC welding, this is illogical for me, because the current flows back and forth across the workpiece. Maybe someone has a few gigabytes of information about welding batteries?) I want to absorb all the text from anyone that is related to welding batteries